Orlando

Land bought quietly

The Disney brothers chose Florida because the climate suited year-round operation and land was available. The land they quietly bought up came to 27,500 acres, twice the size of Manhattan Island. In November 1965 they announced the plan at a hotel in Orlando, and on October 1, 1971, Walt Disney World opened with the Magic Kingdom and two hotels. Today Disney has four theme parks and two water parks, and Universal Orlando has four parks, a water park among them. At one park a day, that's ten days, so it's easier to decide what to skip before deciding where to go.

Disney: four parks, four kinds of day

• Magic Kingdom — Walt Disney World's first park. After dark, Cinderella Castle takes on stained-glass colors while fireworks and lasers carry on above it. • EPCOT — at World Showcase, set around a lagoon, you move through the cultures and food of 11 countries one after another. • Disney's Hollywood Studios — in Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge, you walk through a village on the planet Batuu. • Disney's Animal Kingdom — the Tree of Life stands about 44 m (145 ft) tall, and its 300-plus carved animals only come into view one by one as you step closer.

Universal: following Harry Potter

Diagon Alley is at Universal Studios Florida, Hogsmeade is at Islands of Adventure, and the Hogwarts Express links the two. In Hogsmeade, the Three Broomsticks is the tavern where, in the story, Harry first tasted Butterbeer. The newly opened Universal Epic Universe has you step through portals into five worlds: Harry Potter's Ministry of Magic, Super Nintendo World, How to Train Your Dragon's Isle of Berk, Dark Universe and Celestial Park.

Lake Eola and Mills 50

Downtown's Lake Eola Park is ringed by a 0.9-mile (about 1.4 km) path, and pedal-powered swan boats glide across the water. One of the stories behind the city's name is that of Orlando Reeves, a sentry said to be buried on the lake's south shore. On Sundays, a farmers market sets up in the park. Just north of downtown, Mills 50 takes its name from the intersection of Mills Avenue and State Road 50. The neighborhood's culture centers on its Asian community. Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants sit alongside Asian grocery stores, and murals turn up throughout the streets.

Winter Park: a necklace of lakes

Twenty minutes north of downtown, Winter Park began in 1881, when two New Englanders paid $13,000 for 600 acres bordering four lakes. They called the land a "necklace" of lakes and laid it out as a town of winter homes for wealthy Northerners. It was Florida's first planned community, and soon the railroad was pulling into Central Park and visitors were strolling down Park Avenue. Today, Central Park is right in front of you when you step off SunRail at Winter Park station. The Scenic Boat Tour, running since 1938, spends an hour on the lakes and canals with a guide narrating. Adults pay $20 including tax, and boarding is first come, first served.

Springs, manatees and rockets

Twenty-five minutes north of downtown, at Wekiwa Springs State Park, you can swim and snorkel in 72°F (about 22°C) spring water, or rent a kayak and paddle. You need a reservation to get in. An hour north, Blue Spring State Park draws one of Florida's largest gatherings of manatees from November to mid-March. Stand on the boardwalk on a winter morning and you'll look down on slow gray backs under clear water. Drive about 100 km east and you reach Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. Atlantis is the only space shuttle displayed as if in flight. If your dates line up with a launch, you can watch a rocket climb from inside NASA's gates, with expert commentary. Launch dates can change on short notice.

A suggested 5-night, 6-day plan

Orlando's rainy season usually starts in late May and ends in mid-October. Central Florida is called the lightning capital of the US, so during those months, save outdoor rides and swimming for the morning. Day 1 — Arrive at Orlando International Airport → walk around Lake Eola → dinner in Mills 50 Day 2 — Magic Kingdom, staying for the fireworks Day 3 — EPCOT or Animal Kingdom Day 4 — Universal Studios Florida + Islands of Adventure Day 5 — Epic Universe, or Kennedy Space Center Day 6 — Manatees at Blue Spring in winter, or the Winter Park boat tour in other seasons → airport

What to eat

• Dole Whip (Adventureland, Magic Kingdom)
• Butterbeer (Three Broomsticks, Hogsmeade)
• Pho (Mills 50's Asian restaurants)
• Key lime pie (Florida's official state pie)

Handy tips

• You need a Park-to-Park ticket to ride the Hogwarts Express. If you want Diagon Alley and Hogsmeade on the same day, buy that ticket from the start.
• Stay at a Disney Resort hotel or one of a few select other hotels and you get into the Disney parks 30 minutes early every day of your stay, check-in and check-out days included.
• In manatee season (November to mid-March), Blue Spring State Park closes its spring and spring run to swimming. If you want to get into spring water then, head to Wekiwa Springs, and book ahead: you need a reservation to get in.