Kaohsiung

From Dagou to Kaohsiung

The city's old name was Dagou (打狗). In 1920, under Japanese rule, it was renamed with the characters it uses today, 高雄, which read close to "Takao" in Japanese. They're the same characters as Mount Takao in Kyoto. The port began at Shaochuantou in Hamasen, and that's where the Former British Consulate at Takao and the consul's residence still stand. At first, the British set up their consulate on a ship moored in the harbor, the Ternate. The red-brick residence on the hill came into use in 1879, and an old stone path laid around the same time links it to the consulate office by the water. Follow the path up and you'll look down on ships moving in and out of the harbor. The beach at neighboring Sizihwan faces west across the Taiwan Strait, so the sun goes down over the horizon right in front of you.

Pier-2: it started with two and a half warehouses

Pier-2 Art Center is an arts district made from the harbor's converted cargo warehouses. It began with a fireworks show. That event led to the first two and a half warehouses, and in 2002 the area took shape as an arts district. Today large installations, galleries, and design shops run between the rows of warehouses, and the light rail glides slowly past out front. Every warehouse has a different exhibition, so stepping into them one by one can easily fill half a day. As the light fades, walk over to the nearby Love River. The riverside path lights up, and the reflected bridge lights stretch and ripple across the water.

Formosa Boulevard and Weiwuying: places that make you look up

At Formosa Boulevard Station, where the MRT's Red and Orange lines meet, take a moment to look up. The Dome of Light, a glass ceiling 30 m across and 660 m² in area, covers the station's central hall. Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata worked four themes into the colored glass: water, earth, light, and fire. Even people hurrying to change trains slow down beneath it. Take the Orange Line east and you'll reach Weiwuying, the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts. The performance venue opened in October 2018, and Dutch architect Francine Houben designed it drawing on a grove of banyan trees more than a century old. Under the wave-like roof is an open plaza, so you can sit in the shade and rest even if you're not seeing a show.

Cijin: across the water to the seafood street

Take the boat across from Gushan Pier and you'll land on Cijin, a long, narrow island that wraps around the harbor. A short walk from the pier is Cijin Tianhou Temple, dedicated to Mazu, goddess of the sea, and seafood restaurants line the street in front of it. Fish and shellfish sit on ice outside, and many places will cook what you choose the way you like. Get grilled squid and sashimi on the same table. Mullet roe (烏魚子) is the island's specialty, so plenty of people add a thinly sliced plate to the meal or buy some to take home as a gift. After you eat, climb up to Cihou Lighthouse on the hill. On one side you'll see the harbor entrance; on the other, the Taiwan Strait. Rent a bike and ride down the coast to pass the Rainbow Church and then the windmill park.

Lotus Pond: in through the dragon, out through the tiger

Lotus Pond, in Zuoying north of downtown, is a lake ringed by temples. The two towers standing side by side on the water are the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. They belong to Zuoying's Ciji Temple; construction began in 1974 and was finished in 1976. There's an order to walking them. Go in through the dragon's mouth, look around the towers, and leave through the tiger's mouth, and you're said to ward off misfortune and invite good luck. The open mouths of the dragon and tiger statues out front are the actual doorways. Climb to the upper floors for a view across the still lake and the temple roofs around it.

Days that end at a night market

In Kaohsiung, end the day at a night market. Liuhe Night Market, right next to Formosa Boulevard Station, lines a single main street, so you won't get lost even on a first visit. Have an oyster omelet (蚵仔煎) fresh off the griddle and some grilled seafood, with a papaya milk alongside. If you like stalls packed tight in a grid, head to Ruifeng Night Market near Kaohsiung Arena Station on the Red Line. It doesn't open every day, so check which days it runs before you go.

A suggested four-day plan

Day 1 — Arrive at Kaohsiung International Airport → Red Line from the airport station (R4) into the city → Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard → dinner at Liuhe Night Market Day 2 — Walk around Hamasen → Former British Consulate at Takao → boat from Gushan Pier to Cijin → seafood lunch and Cihou Lighthouse → sunset at Sizihwan Day 3 — Pier-2 Art Center → light rail along the harbor → evening walk by the Love River Day 4 — Dragon and Tiger Pagodas at Lotus Pond → Weiwuying → airport

What to eat

• Cijin seafood (grilled squid, sashimi)
• Mullet roe (烏魚子, a Cijin specialty)
• Papaya milk (a night-market fruit drink)
• Oyster omelet (蚵仔煎, Liuhe and Ruifeng night markets)

Handy tips

• Boats to Cijin leave from Gushan Ferry Pier. It's NT$30 for adults, and you can tap an iPASS or EasyCard. The first boat leaves Cijin at 5 a.m., and service runs until 2 a.m.
• In the MRT's no-food-or-drink areas, drinking, eating, and even chewing gum can get you fined NT$1,500–7,500.
• The Former British Consulate at Takao closes every Wednesday for heritage maintenance (it opens if a national holiday falls then). Other weekdays it's open 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; weekends and holidays, 9 a.m.–7 p.m.