Edinburgh

Two towns, one valley

The Old Town sits on a ridge that slopes east from the castle rock. Narrow lanes branch off one main street on both sides, so on a map it looks like a fishbone. These lanes are called closes. The New Town is the opposite. In 1767, James Craig won the competition to design it and construction began. By 1890, it had filled with wide streets, squares and Georgian terraces. The two towns became a UNESCO World Heritage Site together in 1995. Sit on a bench in Princes Street Gardens, in the valley between them, and you only have to turn your head to switch from one view to the other.

The Royal Mile, castle to palace

The Royal Mile is the downhill street linking two royal residences, Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It's one old Scots mile long. Inside the castle walls, St Margaret's Chapel was built by King David I in honour of his mother, Queen Margaret, who died here in 1093. It's Edinburgh's oldest building. In the Crown Room, the crown, sceptre and sword of state, known as the Honours of Scotland, are the oldest Crown jewels in Britain. On the way down, step into one of the closes on either side and a dark passage sometimes opens onto a small courtyard. Beneath the street, 17th-century lanes survive, and you can walk them on a tour of The Real Mary King's Close.

The 1pm gun and the time ball

Every day except Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day, the castle fires a single gun at 1pm. The One O'Clock Gun dates back to 1861, and ships in the Firth of Forth once set their clocks by its sound. The best place to watch is Calton Hill, at the east end of the New Town. A large time ball sits on top of the Nelson Monument, and it's lowered as the gun fires. Sound travels slower than light, so you'll see the ball drop first and hear the boom a few seconds later. At sunset, stand by the bare columns of the National Monument. To the west are the castle and the Old Town roofline; to the north, the waters of the Firth of Forth.

An old volcano in the middle of town

Behind the Palace of Holyroodhouse, Arthur's Seat rises in Holyrood Park. It's what's left of a volcano that erupted around 340 million years ago. Salisbury Crags, the cliffs facing the city, are where 18th-century geologist James Hutton studied the rocks. The classic walk is 5.5km and takes about an hour and a half. Near the top the rock is bare and slippery and the wind is strong, so shoes with good grip help. From the summit, you can take in the whole Old Town ridge at a glance, sloping east from the castle rock. The Royal Mile runs right along its spine.

Along the water, from Dean Village to Leith

North of the New Town flows a small river, the Water of Leith. Its riverside walkway runs for more than 20km; for a short walk, try the stretch from Stockbridge to Dean Village. Step down just a little from the main streets and there's running water, old stone houses and small bridges. Stockbridge also has a weekly market. Where the river meets the sea is the port of Leith. It's been a harbour since the 14th century, and today Michelin-starred restaurants sit alongside street food spots. Next to Ocean Terminal, the Royal Yacht Britannia, which sailed the world from 1953 to 1997, is permanently berthed. You can look around on board, and the tram takes you there directly from the city centre.

At the Scottish table

Haggis, Scotland's national dish, is made from meat, oatmeal, onions, salt and spices. It usually comes with mashed neeps (turnip) and tatties (potatoes). It was traditionally cooked in a sheep's stomach, which may give you pause, but it tastes a lot like peppery, savoury mince. On a cold, windy day, Cullen skink, a creamy soup of smoked haddock, potatoes and onions, is just right. For dessert, look for cranachan: raspberries, toasted oats, honey and whisky-flavoured cream in layers. At a chip shop here, "Salt and sauce?" is asking whether you want salt plus a brown sauce thinned with vinegar.

The Fringe in August, Hogmanay at year's end

In August, stages pop up all over the city. The Fringe began in 1947, when eight theatre groups turned up uninvited to perform at the Edinburgh International Festival. The 80th Fringe runs from 6 to 30 August 2027, and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a military music performance at the castle, runs from 6 to 28 August. Hogmanay, Edinburgh's New Year festival, runs from 29 December 2026 to 1 January 2027. It opens with a torchlight procession on the evening of the 29th and carries on to a street party, concerts and midnight fireworks on the night of the 31st.

What to eat

• Haggis (with neeps and tatties)
• Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup)
• Fish and chips (salt and sauce)
• Cranachan (raspberries, whisky cream)

Handy tips

• Edinburgh Castle tickets are cheaper online (adult £23.50) than at the gate (£26.00). Summer dates sell out early, and once online tickets are gone, the castle doesn't sell any more.
• On Lothian Buses, tap the same contactless card all day and TapTapCap stops charging you at £5.70. Cash fares need the exact amount, as no change is given.
• Edinburgh adds a 5% visitor levy to overnight stays. When you compare places to stay, check whether it's included in the price.