Auckland

A morning on the crater rim

In Auckland, volcanoes aren't distant scenery; they're neighbourhood parks. Mt Eden (Maungawhau), 5km from downtown, is the city's highest volcano at 196m. Since January 2016, the summit road has been closed to private vehicles, so everyone walks up. At the top, a crater 180m across and 50m deep opens at your feet. Māori named it Te Kapua kai a Mataoho, the food bowl of Mataoho, the god of volcanoes. Walk the rim track and you'll see terraces on the slopes and the hollows of rua, pits once used to store crops. They're traces of a Māori pā that was home to thousands.

What's left on One Tree Hill

One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie) looks different once you know the story behind the name. Its 184m summit once held a sacred lone tōtara, cut down by European settlers in 1852. Of the trees Sir John Logan Campbell planted afterwards, the last survivor, a Monterey pine, became the 'one tree'. After being vandalised in 1994 and 1999, it became unsafe and was removed in 2000. In June 2016, three tōtara and six pōhutukawa were planted on the same spot. Once they can survive on their own, only one will be kept as the new 'one tree'. Campbell is buried beside the 21m obelisk, and the walk up through Cornwall Park makes an easy stroll.

Twenty-five minutes to the youngest volcano

Look out from the downtown ferry terminal and there's always one island in view, its slopes spreading evenly on both sides. That's Rangitoto, which rose from the sea about 600 years ago, making it New Zealand's youngest volcano. The ferry takes about 25 minutes, and from the wharf it's 2.3km, roughly an hour's walk, to the summit. The track winds between rough black lava and through the forest that's taken root in its cracks. From the top you look back over the city and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf, and on the way down a short side trip takes you to the lava caves. There are no cafés or shops on the island, so bring water and snacks.

Waiheke: a day among the vines

If Rangitoto is an island for walking, Waiheke is one for lingering. It's about 40 minutes by ferry across the Hauraki Gulf, and vineyards and olive groves dot its hills. The island has dozens of wineries, and many offer cellar door tastings alongside a proper meal. An easy rhythm: lunch in Oneroa near the wharf, a couple of wineries by bus or e-bike, then a slow afternoon on Onetangi, the island's longest beach at 2km.

The west coast: black sand and forest

Drive 30 to 40 minutes west and the sea changes. Unlike the calm Hauraki Gulf, the west coast faces the Tasman Sea, with big surf and black sand. Muriwai is the best-known black-sand beach here. Strong rips and large waves can occur, so swim only between the patrolled flags. It's also known as a place where gannets gather from August to March, but according to the official visitor guide, access to the colony is temporarily closed due to cyclone damage. The Waitākere Ranges forest starts at Arataki Visitor Centre, about a 30-minute drive away. To protect kauri trees, clean your footwear at every hygiene station and stay on open tracks. Lake Wainamu, 2km inland from Te Henga / Bethells Beach, sits behind sand dunes. The loop takes about an hour, and you can swim.

Eating and wandering in town

On a city day, stop by the Auckland Fish Market in Wynyard Quarter. It stocks over 100 varieties of fish, and the eateries inside are good for a lunch of fresh oysters or a mussel hotpot. In the evening, choose between two streets, depending on your mood. Dominion Road is full of Asian restaurants, from Sichuan dishes, hot pot and Chinese-style dumplings to Japanese yakitori. Karangahape Road, known as K Road, is the heart of Auckland's LGBTQIA+ community and a street of bars and live music venues. Auckland Museum is known for its Māori and Pacific collections and runs a Māori Cultural Experience twice a day (NZ$35 per adult). At the Sky Tower, New Zealand's tallest building, you can try the SkyJump, descending from 192m on a wire.

A four-day plan

Day 1 — Arrive at the airport → AirportLink bus to Puhinui Station → train into the city → waterfront walk in Wynyard Quarter → Sky Tower Day 2 — Mt Eden crater rim → One Tree Hill and Cornwall Park → Auckland Museum → dinner on Dominion Road Day 3 — Morning on Rangitoto's summit and lava caves → lunch at the Fish Market → Devonport, a 12-minute ferry ride → dinner on K Road Day 4 — Waiheke Island (lunch in Oneroa, wineries, Onetangi Beach) → evening ferry back to the city With one more day, hire a car for a west coast day linking Arataki, Lake Wainamu and Muriwai.

What to eat

• Mussel hotpot and oysters (Auckland Fish Market)
• Sichuan dishes and dumplings (Dominion Road)
• Waiheke wine (cellar door tastings)
• Mince and cheese pie (bakeries and cafés)

Handy tips

• Visiting short-term without a visa? You need an approved NZeTA before you fly, and you can't board until it's granted. It's NZ$117 through the app and NZ$123 on the website, so the app is cheaper.
• Every arriving traveller must complete a New Zealand Traveller Declaration (NZTD), which is free. Fail to declare restricted items, including organic goods like food, or declare them incorrectly, and you can get a NZ$400 fine on the spot. If in doubt, declare it.
• Buses, trains and most ferries take contactless credit and debit cards, charged at the adult AT HOP fare. The NZ$20 daily cap applies only to buses, trains and inner-harbour ferries such as Devonport. Tap on and off every trip. The Waiheke ferry doesn't take contactless, and overseas-issued cards may be charged a fee.